Simple Ideas: Modify a SATA enclosure to make data backups easier.

If you're like me, you do a lot of system reloads for people who have OS issues due to malware or other factors. As a part of nearly all reload procedures a data backup of the owner's documents, pictures, music, etc. is performed. I always give a client the option and try to steer them toward it since the chances of recovering important information inexpensively after a system reload become very slim. While it's not something I would expect many wouldn't eventually come up with, I decided I would streamline the process of doing this step by modifying a SATA drive enclosure so that it can be used with the system's drive withoutremoving the drive from the PC.

First, I ditched the wimpy power adapter that came with the enclosure. This is the weak point on almost all drive enclosures. I've probably had ten of these fail for every other problem I've encountered with SATA drive enclosures so I opted to replace it with a unit that outputs the same voltage but has a higher current capacity.

Nice and heavy. 4.16A heavy.

I chose an enclosure that has everything required on one board rather than lots of leads going off to switches and lights that are sometimes difficult to remove from the chassis, etc. I also found that having a power switch on this particular enclosure's board was handy and there's even eSATA for added speed (though I'm just using USB right now).

USB, eSata, power switch and connector.

SATA and SATA power connectors.

"Modify the enclosure" might not be the exact phrase to describe what I did - rather, I removed the board from the enclosure. That is all. This really isn't a terribly complex operation, you just undo some screws, bend some tabs, etc. and free the board from the enclosure. Again, this is easier to do and the finished product is easier to handle if everything is integrated and you don't have to bring along extra stuff from the enclosure to get it to work.

Now, this is exceptionally simple to put into use: all you have to do is disconnect the SATA and power cables going to the hard drive in the computer being repaired and dock this little guy to the back of the drive. A word of warning, however, the SATA connections on the backs of hard drives can be fragile. I would advise against putting any undue strain on the connector with this board. Fortunately, the board itself is light enough it puts less strain than stiff SATA cables can on the board and thanks to the built-in power switch I can keep the power off (green light is dark) until it is completely seated on the drive and then apply power with the flip of a switch, rather than trying to plug in a coaxial DC connector to the back of the board while keeping it securely docked to the drive. Now plug the USB (or eSATA) into your host machine and you're in business.

Serious business.

Be mindful of the cords while they are hooked up and don't make any tripping hazards or you might still damage the hard drive being worked on. A data recovery process can sometimes take hours so it's important to keep everything clean and simple so you're not accidentally jerking cords around. My data recovery station is one table that I keep an iMac on for performing the actual recovery and I do not string any cords across gaps.

In the end this can save you several minutes on each job and help prevent the possibility of accidentally dropping the customer's hard drive or losing it either on your bench (it's perfectly clean, isn't it?) or worse, in another customer's computer. I normally label all drives with permanent marker with the customer's name before it leaves my hand after removing it from a PC, but this saves all those steps and is especially helpful on systems where you have to jump through hoops like front panel and faceplate component removal are required to remove the drive.

Who, me?

In addition to merely removing the board and using it one could also insulate it somewhat to protect it from damage and protect other things that it might come into contact with while left plugged into it's power brick. One could simply wrap the board with tape, I have done this before, but it will leave a sticky mess if you ever choose to change your design. You could also make or repurpose a small enclosure that holds just the board and perhaps integrates some form of mechanical attachment to support the device on the back of a drive. Keep in mind, however, if you make it much bigger or add tight brackets to the front side you can limit the device's usefulness, so I prefer to keep things simple.